Japan's capital for a thousand years, spared the wartime bombing, and left with two thousand temples and shrines. Also, now, extremely popular — which makes when you visit each place matter as much as which ones you choose.
Fushimi Inari, the bamboo grove and Kiyomizu-dera are transformed by arriving before eight.
The bamboo grove at Arashiyama is genuinely magical at seven in the morning and a slow-moving corridor of people by ten. Fushimi Inari's tunnel of torii gates is open around the clock and free — go at dawn and the upper slopes are empty. Kiyomizu-dera opens at six. This isn't a marginal improvement; it's the difference between the Kyoto in the photographs and a disappointing shuffle. Base yourself here rather than day-tripping from Osaka, precisely so you can be out at six.
Pick five or six rather than twenty. Kyoto punishes a checklist approach.
Ten thousand vermilion torii gates up a wooded mountain. Free, open 24 hours. Go at dawn and climb past the first bend.
Best at seven in the morning, genuinely poor by ten. The Ōkōchi Sansō villa nearby is quieter and has better views.
A wooden stage on stilts over the hillside, with the old streets of Higashiyama below. Opens at six.
The golden pavilion reflected in its pond. Small, crowded, and still worth it. First thing, or skip it.
The geisha district. Walk Hanamikoji and Shirakawa around six. Photographing geiko is restricted on some streets and fines apply.
Four hundred metres of food stalls, known as Kyoto's kitchen. Pickles, tofu, sweets. Eat as you go, mid-morning.
Kyoto is flat and cyclable. Where you stay determines how easily you can get out early.
The eastern hills, near Kiyomizu-dera and Gion. Walk to the best temples before breakfast.
Restaurants, Nishiki Market and the nightlife. Best transport links and the widest hotel choice.
Bullet trains and buses from the door. Practical rather than charming, and better value.
West, by the bamboo and the river. Lovely in the evening once the day visitors leave.
Late March to early April for cherry blossom, and mid-to-late November for autumn colour. Both are spectacular and both sell out.
Blossom timing moves year to year and firms up about a fortnight ahead. Autumn colour in Kyoto peaks later than most of Japan, usually the second half of November, and many temples run special evening illuminations. Summer is hot and very humid; winter is cold, clear and by far the quietest, with snow on the temple roofs a genuine possibility in January.
No international airport. Fly to Osaka Kansai (KIX), about 75 minutes away, or to Tokyo and take the bullet train.
Tokyo to Kyoto in 2h 15m. A Japan Rail Pass pays off if you're doing this plus other intercity legs.
Japanese yen. Carry cash — temples, buses and small restaurants are often cash-only.
Buses and bicycles. Kyoto is flat and cycling between temples is the pleasantest way to do it.
We'll come back with hotels in the right quarter, the rail pass costed properly, and the payment plan written out in full.
Four. Kyoto has more worth seeing than Tokyo and rewards a slower pace. Most people pair it with Tokyo for ten to twelve nights total.
Tokyo first, usually — arrive, adjust, then take the bullet train west. Flying home from Osaka avoids doubling back.
If you travel in the first ten days of April you have good odds, but it's weather-dependent and forecasts firm up late. We'd book flexible fares.
If you're doing Tokyo, Kyoto and one or two other cities, usually yes. For Kyoto alone, no.
Flights, a central hotel and transfers as one package. We book the museum and gallery slots that sell out, and tell you which ones to book yourself.
Guide prices, per person, based on two sharing, including return flights, central accommodation and airport transfers. They indicate what a break of this type has typically cost and are not an offer or a quotation. Your price depends on dates, party, departure airport and availability, and is confirmed in writing before any payment is taken.
Ready-built itineraries with flights, transfers and internal hops booked as one package, ATOL protected. Every one can be reshaped around your dates.
12 nights · Apr–Oct · from £1,749pp
13 nights · Nov–Mar · from £1,649pp
13 nights · Nov–Mar · from £2,099pp
13 nights · Dec–Mar · from £1,599pp
14 nights · Apr–Oct · from £1,849pp
15 nights · Apr–Oct · from £2,199pp
14 nights · Mar–Apr, Oct–Nov · from £2,999pp
12 nights · Nov–Mar · from £1,849pp
